Pag Island is located right along the coast of Croatia, between the cities of Zadar and Rijeka, in the Dalmatia region. This island characterized by barren, rocky, windswept landscapes, is one of the most famous beach destinations in Croatia. Tourists from all over the world come here for its stunning beaches, crystal clear sea and scenic hidden bays.
But Pag is also famous for its campsites and hotels and for the Zrće Beach, one of the most popular party beaches in Croatia. But if wild parties aren’t your thing, Pag has much more to offer: the town of Pag is a jewel of Venetian architecture, designed by Dalmatinac, the Dalmatian architect who designed some of the most famous buildings in the area (such as the Cathedral of Sibenik, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site). And just a little further on from Zrce Beach you can discover a vast series of quiet, uncrowded and incredibly beautiful beaches.
What you will find in this travel guide to Pag Island:
- Pag Island: Interesting Facts and Useful Info
- Best Things to Do on Pag Island
- Best Beaches on Pag Island
- Best Restaurants on Pag Island
- How to Get to Pag Island
Pag Island: Interesting Facts and Useful Info
Pag is one of the most famous islands in Croatia, renowned for its beaches, picturesque towns and its emerald sea. It is also very popular with campers and revelers, as it is very easy to get there from Zadar and other cities on the Croatian coast.
Pag is the fifth largest island in Croatia, with an almost 300 km long coastline. It is located in Northern Dalmatia, in the archipelago of the Southern Liburnian Islands, characterized by dramatic rocky landscapes, with beautiful pebble beaches on a crystalline sea. The rugged coastline is full of beautiful coves, the largest of which is 60 km long and is home to some of the most famous clubs and beaches in the area, including Zrće Beach, also known as Zrce Festival Beach.
The northern area is characterized by rocky plateaus that slope down towards the plains of the southern area, where there is the town of Pag and its salt pans.
On Pag Island there is not much vegetation, so apart from a few pine forests along the coast, the island appears sunburned and arid. This is mainly due to the wind blowing on Pag, called Bura, which with its strong gusts makes it difficult for plants to grow. For centuries, local farmers and shepherds have built dry stone walls to protect crops. Even today, the traditional Pag farming represents one of the most interesting cultural and gastronomic elements of the island.
Getting to Pag is very easy, because the island is connected to the mainland by a 300-meter-long bridge located at the southern end. For those coming from the north, there is a Jadrolinija car ferry that connects Žigljen (on Pag Island) with the town of Prizna (on the mainland).
Some Curious Facts about the History of the Pag Island
It is believed that the first settlements on Pag Island were founded by the Romans around the 1st BC, although some traces of the presence of some prehistoric tribes, probably dating back to the Neolithic, have been found on the island. In Novalja it is even possible to visit a section of an underground Roman aqueduct (it is located right inside the Novalja City Museum).
From the 7th century Pag Island was dominated by the Croats and then by the Hungarians until the 15th century, when it was conquered by the Republic of Venice, which ruled the region for over 4 centuries. In this period the town of Pag was moved from the old Stari Grad Pag (of which today only a few ruins and the beautiful Church of St. Mary remain) a few kilometers further north, where the beautiful Venetian-style town of Pag was built, designed by the famous architect Giorgio da Sebenico, also known as Juraj Dalmatinac.
At the end of the 18th century Pag came under the Austro-Hungarians and after WWI it was annexed to the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. After WWII, Pag Island suffered a heavy wave of depopulation, also due to the exodus of a large part of the Italian community and emigration to the USA, Canada and Australia. It was annexed to socialist Yugoslavia, and then became part of Croatia after the collapse of Yugoslavia in the early 1990s.
The region’s economy has always been based on fishing, viticulture, pastoralism and salt extraction. The Pag salt pans have been the hub of the local economy for centuries, especially under Venetian rule. To maximize salt production, the work here was industrially organized with the establishment of the factory called Solana Pag, which is still one of the largest salt producers in Croatia today.
Best Things to Do on Pag Island
Pag Island has two main towns, Pag and Novalja, and a dozen small villages, crowded with tourists in the summer and desolate in the winter. Pag and Novalja are located one in the north and one in the south of the island, and are two towns with a very different character and appearance. Pag has a calm and pleasant atmosphere, a few good restaurants, a marina and a beautiful old town in Venetian style.
Novalja is a popular beach destination and is a more modern town with bars, clubs and a vibrant nightlife. However, the island is easily explored by car, and you can make the most of it in a couple of days.
There are some excellent hotels on the island, such as the Family Hotel Pagus, which offers excellent all-inclusive accommodation (including 3 meals a day and unlimited alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks), the modern Joel Hotel, with a nice view of the sea and the town of Novalja and the excellent Boutique Hotel Boškinac, located in a wonderful house with a view, which boasts a good restaurant and an interesting owned cellar which also organizes wine tastings.
Pag
The beautiful town of Pag is the most important on the island. It rises in a bay in the southern part of the island, overlooking a small port and its salt marshes. Before the Venetians, the town was a few kilometers further south, where it is still possible to see some ruins and the beautiful church of Stari Grad Pag.
In 1443 the Venetians built a new picturesque town designed by the famous architect Juraj Dalmatinac, the same who designed (among other things) the famous Cathedral of Sibenik, which is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The town of Pag grew considerably in size and prestige during the Venetian rule, and still retains its old charm, with narrow streets and stone houses housing craft shops and cafes.
The town can be easily explored on foot in a short time, perhaps starting from the harbor promenade and then visiting some of its beautiful churches. The Collegiate Church of the Assumption, located right in the main square, is worth a visit. This beautiful Gothic church was built in the 16th century and is a masterpiece made by Dalmatinac. If it’s open, take a look at its authentic Baroque interior.
Also very beautiful is the Ducal Palace (Kneževa Palača), also designed by Dalmatinac, an elegant Venetian-style stone building, which today houses the Pag’s Lace Gallery, a museum dedicated to the famous art of lacemaking, recognized as a UNESCO Intangible Heritage.
Lacemaking in Pag is one of the oldest traditions, which for centuries has been handed down between generations practically unchanged. In the town there are some craft shops where you can find authentic Pag lace, a good souvenir for connoisseurs.
Taste Paški Sir – the famous Pag cheese
The excellent cheese called Paški Sir is produced on Pag Island, characterized by a robust, salty and slightly spicy flavor. You will easily find in the town of Pag and around the island several shops or stalls selling cheese made by local shepherds.
A good place where you can taste and buy it is the Siroteka Cheeseshop in Pag or Sirana Gligora, in the small village of Kolan. The latter is a cheese farm that also organizes guided tours and tastings, to find out more about this cheese and how it is made.
The Pag Carnival
The most famous event on Pag Island is the Pag Carnival, one of the liveliest and most popular events in Croatia. It takes place twice a year, one in winter and the other in summer.
The winter carnival runs from the Monday following the Epiphany until Ash Wednesday and parties and banquets are organized in the hotels, restaurants and squares of the area. On the last day, Ash Wednesday, there is a big party in the Pag square, with parades and dances in traditional clothes.
Folk dancers perform traditional Tanac dances and a theatrical representation of the so-called Pag’s Slave (Paška Robinja), the story of a local girl who was reduced to slavery during the Turkish domination. The winter carnival ends with the traditional burning of the “puppet Marko”, which represents the evil and misfortunes that occurred during the year.
The summer carnival is held on the first weekend of July, purely for tourists. In fact this is not the traditional carnival that has been held for centuries, but it aims to make the tourist experience the real traditional atmosphere of Pag. It always takes place in the main square of Pag and offers the same events as the real winter carnival, in a more condensed, but no less exciting way.
Novalja
Novalja is the most modern and lively town on Pag Island, and it is also the main tourist destination, particularly popular for its beautiful beaches, the crystal clear emerald sea and the vibrant nightlife.
Novalja is located in the north-central part of Pag Island, which makes it a great place to stay. From here you can easily explore all the main attractions of the island. In summer the town and its beaches can be quite crowded, especially the very famous Zrće Beach (about 4 km from the city center) and the Plaža Planjka Trinćel, near Stara Novalja (about 2 km from the city center). However, the coast around Novalja offers miles of beautiful pebble beaches, so you shouldn’t have any problems finding a spot.
Although the main attraction of Novalja is Zrće Beach, one of the most famous party beaches in Croatia, the city center of Novalja is still pleasant. While there isn’t much to see and its houses are quite modern and bland, it is full of good places to have a drink or eat.
Roman aqueduct of Novalja (Talijanova Buža)
In the heart of Novalja you will be able to see one of the few Roman remains on the island, an underground Roman aqueduct. It is a tunnel about 1 km long and only 60 cm wide. It was built in the 1st century AD as part of the water supply system of the Roman colony of Cissa, today’s Novalja.
Part of the underground aqueduct tunnel can be visited and along the way you will be able to see some openings at the top, which were used first to dig the tunnel and then for maintenance of the aqueduct. They are called “Odiha” and some are even more than 40 meters deep.
The tunnel can be visited from Monday to Friday from 8.00 to 15.00 and can be accessed from inside the City Museum of Novalja. The museum provides the safety equipment for the visit. Admission: 20 Kn (reduced 10 Kn).
City Museum of Novalja
But the underground aqueduct isn’t the only reason to visit the City Museum of Novalja. The museum also boasts an interesting collection of archaeological finds ranging from Roman times through the 19th century, including the remains of ancient Roman ships, religious artifacts, furniture and tools belonging to local traditions and culture. The museum also exhibits a collection of over 150 coins from the Roman era, found around Novalja.
Lun
Tiny Lun is the northernmost village on the island, and also the most remote. It is famous for its cultivation of olive trees: in this area there are over 80,000 centuries-old olive trees spread over an area of over 24 hectares. Some of these olive trees are over 1500 years old!
Furthermore Lun is one of the three places in the world with the greatest concentration of wild olive trees, and with the greatest biodiversity: the village is home to over 300 different species of olive trees. You can explore this area with a hike along the many rocky paths that start around the village. Hikers will be able to take beautiful walks and discover beautiful hidden and often deserted coves. Rocky terrain can be challenging, so go there with suitable shoes.
The village itself is really tiny, but has a couple of good restaurants serving fried or grilled local fish. It can be reached easily by road from Novalja or by some seasonal boats (passengers only) from Rab.
Best Beaches on Pag Island
Zrće Beach
Zrće Beach is the most famous beach on Pag Island, located about 2 km from Novalja. It is a beautiful 1 km long beach, located in a cove with a wonderful crystal clear sea.
It is the heart of Novalja’s nightlife. There are several beach clubs with private beaches and equipped with umbrellas and sunbeds, but what attracts so many people are the clubs and beach bars, which organize parties all night with some of the best international DJs. The clubs are open from June to September and prices are usually moderate, even if it is very crowded in August.
One of the most popular beach clubs on Zrće Beach is Kalypso, a very cool tropical-style venue located at the northern end of the bay of Zrće Beach. During the day you can relax on the beach or by the pool, while in the evening the club turns into an open-air disco with the best international DJs.
At the southern end of Zrće Beach is the Papaya Club, considered to be one of the best clubs on the island. It is truly huge and can accommodate over 5000 people. It also has a nice atmosphere, with palm trees, terraces and swimming pools. Here, too, in the evening you can dance to the music of the best DJs.
Nearby is the Club Noa, located right on the water, on a kind of stilts, connected to the mainland by a bridge. Besides being a great club that throws huge parties, it also has several good bars.
Between Papaya and Kalypso there is the Aquarius Club, another very popular club and considered one of the best 100 clubs in the world. It is really huge and always very crowded. Every night it hosts great DJs and music festivals.
Zrće Beach is connected to Novalja with a shuttle service that runs all night.
Ručice Beach and Beritnica Beach
If the mega-festivals of Zrće Beach are not your thing, then you might want to take a look at the other great beaches of Pag. One is located near the village of Metajna, characterized by a striking rocky landscape that also offers a wide choice of hiking trails.
Ručice Beach (Plaža Ručica), can be reached via a path that starts from the village of Metajna (GPS: 44.50601, 15.00913) and runs along the sea, offering an abundance of viewpoints. The beach can also be reached by car. There is a narrow road (signposted) from the village and ending with a small parking lot.
From Ručice Beach, a beautiful pebble beach overlooking a crystal clear sea and surrounded by an almost lunar (or, as the locals say, Martian) landscape, you can continue to Beritnica Beach, hidden behind the Stogaj Hill. It can be reached in about 20 minutes via a hiking trail that crosses the so-called Kanyon, a scenic and desolate arid and rocky valley. Pebbly Beritnica Beach boasts unbeatable sea, view and landscape, and is usually uncrowded.
Bošana
6 km from the town of Pag is the village of Bošana, overlooking the bay, and characterized by a rocky cliff that hides some beautiful coves, usually uncrowded.
Planjka Beach or Trinćel
Going north from Novalja, you will find the village Stara Novalja, with its famous Planjka Beach or Trinćel, which is another very famous beach on the island. In July and August it is generally very crowded, also because it is very popular with people from the two neighboring towns. The beach is well equipped, offers sun lounger and umbrella rental, and there are showers, toilets and bars. The shallow water makes it ideal for families.
Jakisnica
Continuing towards the northern tip of the island, just before the village of Lun you will encounter another tiny village, Jakisnica. From here you can access several kilometers of pebble beaches overlooking a beautiful crystal clear sea. The area is usually uncrowded, although to access the most beautiful spots you will have to walk a bit towards Uvala Slatina Beach.
Gajac
Another famous seaside village on Pag Island is Gajac, located 5 km from Novalja and 2 km from Zrce Beach. Although it has the appearance of being nothing more than a conglomeration of modern houses, with dozens of tourist apartments, Gajac also boasts beautiful beaches, not as crowded as those around Novalja.
Mandre and Šimuni
Continuing south from Gajac you reach the villages of Mandre and Šimuni, often underestimated by mass tourism, and therefore generally quiet and less crowded. Both offer several beautiful beaches and miles of rocky coastline.
Šimuni is no longer a secret, but it boasts several beautiful beaches, where you can also rent sun beds and umbrellas, as well as a few beach clubs, a wide choice of restaurants and cafes and even a small luxury marina.
Best Restaurants on Pag Island
Konoba Bile
The Konoba Bile is a good traditional restaurant located in the heart of the town of Pag. It is a very rustic place, with some outdoor seating (some barrels serving as a table). It serves good regional cuisine including cold cuts, local cheeses, olives and good local wines and beers. Also good for an aperitif or an informal dinner.
Tattva Restaurant Pag
The Tattva Pag restaurant is located in Novalja, right on the popular Zrce Beach. It is a glamorous outdoor venue, located in a large Bedouin-style tent. It serves eclectic cuisine with North African inspirations but made with fine local ingredients.
Restaurant Starac i More
The Starac i More restaurant is located in the town of Novalja, and is famous for being one of the best in the area. In summer it also has a nice terrace for al fresco dining. It offers simple regional specialties, such as excellent fried or grilled fish. The restaurant is usually closed between October and April.
How to Get to Pag Island
The best way to get to Pag is by car, as the island is easily accessible via a bridge that connects it to the mainland. Otherwise, for those coming from the north of Croatia, there are car ferries operated by Jadrolinija between Prizna and Žigljen. Departures are frequent and the journey takes only 15 minutes. Tickets: 15 kn for passengers, from 80 kn for cars.
From Zadar to Pag
The Put Vrela road or the Jadranska Magistrala main road lead directly from Zadar to Pag Island with a detour to road 106. You can easily get there by car in about 30 minutes. There are also 3 buses a day to Pag from Zadar, which take around 1.5 hours. Buses also stop in Novalja, Gajac, Šimuni and Kolan.
