Koper, also known as Capodistria in Italian, stands as a captivating coastal gem nestled within Slovenia’s landscape. Its significance as the nation’s primary port, bustling with cruise ships and colossal container vessels, echoes its dynamic maritime presence, intertwined with a riveting and complex history.
Upon initial impressions, visitors might be deterred by the industrial facade of the harbor, alongside the sprawling presence of modern infrastructure and bustling shopping complexes at the town’s periphery. However, delving deeper into Koper reveals a remarkable contrast. Wander into the labyrinth of narrow cobblestone alleys within the ancient town, and the city’s true essence unfolds. Here lies a picturesque medieval core, adorned with graceful Venetian-style palaces that whisper tales of a bygone era. Amidst these historic treasures, one encounters a diverse culinary scene boasting fine dining establishments and quaint cafes exuding an atmosphere of serenity and charm.
What you will find in this guide to visiting Koper:
- Things to know before visiting Koper
- Best things to do and see in Koper
- Best things to do and see around Koper
- Best Restaurants in Koper
- How to get to Koper
Things to know before visiting Koper
Koper is the largest coastal city in Slovenia, and behind its sprawling port lies a wonderful medieval old town, reminiscent of the coastal cities of northeastern Italy. This is no coincidence; in fact, the city has long been under Venetian and Italian rule, and most of the buildings in the old town date back to these eras. While it may seem akin to the more famous and bustling Piran, Koper maintains a distinctively authentic and tranquil atmosphere.
Additionally, Koper holds the distinction of being one of the oldest towns in Slovenia. Known as Aegida by the Greeks and later established as a vibrant port settlement named Capris by the Romans, it has seen a rich history of civilizations passing through its gates. Subsequently, it fell under Byzantine influence and later became a vital part of the Venetian Republic, during which it was referred to as Caput Histriae, meaning the Capital of Istria. Hence, the Italian name Capodistria.
From the 13th to the late 18th century, Koper flourished under Venetian rule, emerging as one of the most prosperous towns along the Adriatic coast. During this period, Koper was situated as an island amidst extensive salt flats, fortified by walls and linked to the mainland by a lengthy wooden bridge. Koper ceased to be an island only between the late 19th and early 20th centuries when the Italians discontinued the salt pans, no longer as economically viable as they once were. Post-World War II, the region between Trieste and Koper became a contentious area between Italy and Yugoslavia.
As per the Treaty of Paris, the area was intended to form an independent state known as the Free Territory of Trieste. Although this state never materialized, it resembled the post-war Berlin scenario, divided into sectors among the Allied powers.
Through subsequent agreements, the Free Territory of Trieste, originally divided into Zone A (including Trieste) and Zone B (including Koper), came under Italian and Yugoslav administration, respectively. The definitive annexation of Zone A and Trieste to Italy, and Zone B, encompassing Koper and much of Slovenian Istria, to Yugoslavia, was formalized only in 1975 with the Treaty of Osimo. Koper transitioned to Slovenian control in 1991 following Slovenia’s declaration of independence from Yugoslavia.
Situated approximately ten kilometers from the Italian border, Koper has historically facilitated frequent border crossings between its residents and those of Trieste. Additionally, Koper is among the Slovenian cities where Italian language enjoys official recognition, reflected in bilingual street signs and notices.
While Koper’s beaches may lack the allure of sandy shores, predominantly featuring concrete platforms and pebble stretches, nearby Ankaran (formerly part of the Koper municipality) offers pleasant beaches and picturesque seaside resorts. Exploring the environs of Koper by car reveals well-preserved rural charm and a bounty of gastronomic delights, including wines, oils, truffles, and cheeses. Guided tours departing from Koper offer excellent opportunities to delve into the culinary wonders of the region.
Best things to do and see in Koper
Koper Old Town can be easily visited on foot in a couple of hours, starting from the marina and walking along Kidričeva ulica to Tito Square (Titov trg). Most of the Venetian period attractions are located here, in what was once the beating heart of the city. It is worth getting lost in the maze of surrounding alleys to discover peaceful monasteries, craft shops, and beautiful buildings.
In particular, just a few steps from Tito Square, it is worth taking a look at Trg Brolo (Brolo Square), where there is the beautiful 17th-century Vissich-Nardi Palace, which houses government offices and the Fontico, an ancient granary from the Venetian era, with a facade rich in reliefs. In the square, there is also the small Church of St. James, dating from the 14th century, now home to a wind band, and just behind it is one of the most famous concert halls in Koper.
After visiting the impressive Cathedral of the Assumption, take Čevljarska ulica, the alley to the left of the Praetorian Palace, and continue until you exit the old town, to see the beautiful Da Ponte Fountain (Pontejev vodnjak), a fountain erected in the 17th century by an Italian noble family in Prešernov Trg. Right in front is the Muda Gate (Vrata Muda), dating back to the early 1500s, the only preserved ancient city gate.
Carpacciov Trg
The first square you come across walking from the marina towards Kidričeva ulica, the main street of Koper Old Town, is Carpacciov Trg, easily recognizable by the large arched Taverna, a kind of portico that is actually a one-time salt warehouse dating from the 15th century, when Koper owed much of its wealth to the abundant production of its salt pans.
In the center of Carpacciov Trg you can see the Column of St Justina, which celebrates the contribution of the city of Koper to the massive and glorious Battle of Lepanto of 1571, the largest naval battle in modern history, which saw the defeat of the Ottoman Muslims by the Christian coalition (the Holy League). Right next to it there is an ancient well from the Roman era, which today serves as a fountain.
Kidričeva Ulica
The beautiful Kidričeva Ulica is the road from the marina to Tito Square, lined with colorful town houses and some of the most beautiful buildings in Koper.
On the facade of the 18th-century baroque Totto ex Gavardo Palace you can see the Venetian winged lion, which once stood on the facade of the Lion Castle, the ancient 13th-century Venetian castle demolished by the Austrians in the 19th century. Unfortunately, the Totto Palace is abandoned and in poor condition.
Just in front of the Totto Palace are a couple of beautiful authentic medieval town houses with colorful checkered painted facades. One of the most beautiful palaces along Kidričeva ulica houses the interesting Regional Museum of Koper, which boasts a rich collection of artifacts, weapons and artworks and provides good insight into the local history and culture.
Along Kidričeva ulica there are also several churches from the 16th century. Peek behind the window grates of the Church of St Nicholas (Cerkev sv. Nikolaja) to see an ancient, decadent and atmospheric church once frequented by Venetian merchants and sailors.
Tito Square (Titov Trg)
At the end of Kidričeva Ulica you will arrive at Tito Square, the real heart of Koper. The square is dominated by the majestic Cathedral of the Assumption and its belfry, the beautiful Praetorian Palace, once the seat of the Venetian governor, the arcaded Venetian Gothic Loggia and the Armory, which now houses the University. Behind the Armory is the Foresterija (a kind of inn from ancient times), today also part of the University.
The Venetian Gothic Loggia, built in 1463, houses an art gallery and a cafe. Just behind the Cathedral you can take a peek at the Romanesque Rotunda of John the Baptist (Rotunda svetega Janeza Krstnika), an ancient 12th century baptistery.
Cathedral of the Assumption
Koper’s Cathedral of the Assumption dates from the mid-1700s, built in a mixture of Gothic and Romanesque styles, with an impressive 36m-tall belfry.
If you feel like it, you can climb the 204 stairs to the top of the belfry, also called the City Tower, to enjoy the view over the rooftops of the city. Otherwise you can simply take a look at the cathedral’s austere interior.
Praetorian Palace
The symbol of the town of Koper is its Praetorian Palace, once the seat of the Venetian governor who administered the entire region. This marvelous palace, built in the 15th century in a mixture of Venetian Gothic and Renaissance styles, is the real highlight of Koper and one of the few fully restored Venetian buildings in the city.
Today it houses the town hall and the tourist office which organizes interesting guided tours of the palace. Visiting the austere interiors of the Praetorian Palace you will be able to see the city council meeting chamber, an old pharmacy and the ceremonial hall used for weddings and conferences, as well as learn more about local history.
Best things to do and see around Koper
The Koper Old Town may surprise you with its beautiful medieval Venetian buildings, but if you have a car you should definitely not miss its surroundings, full of old picturesque villages, old churches, farms and wonderful valleys.
Excellent gastronomic tours depart from Koper to discover the delicious local specialties, including the prized Istrian White Truffle. Furthermore, from Koper you can easily reach the very famous Postojna Caves, or the equally wonderful Škocjan Caves (UNESCO).
If you don’t have a car you could rent one in Koper or in one of the main cities on the coast. It is advisable to book (especially in summer) well in advance on reliable websites such as Rentalcars or Discovercars, which offer the best car rentals at the best price.
Otherwise there are convenient day tours that allow you to easily and comfortably visit the main attractions in the area:
- Day trip from Koper to the surrounding ancient villages and castles
- Day trip from Koper to Postojna Cave and Predjama Castle
- Day trip from Koper to the Škocjan Caves and the 400-year-old Lipica Horse Farm
- Day trip from Koper to Lake Bled and Ljubljana
Here are some of the best places to see for your road trip around Koper:
Church of the Holy Trinity in Hrastovlje
The tiny village of Hrastovlje, located 20 km east of Koper, is famous for its wonderful fortified church dedicated to the Holy Trinity (Sveta Trojica).
The fortified church dates from the 12th century, and is one of the many tabor (fortified churches) in the area. The fortifications, added in the 15th century to protect the churches from the frequent devastating attacks of the Ottomans, make it look more like a castle than a church.
If the view from the outside is decidedly suggestive, enter the church to admire the amazing entirely frescoed interior. Among the wonderful frescoes of the 15th century, the famous Dance of Death (Danza Macabra) stands out, which depicts eleven people and as many skeletons that carry them to the afterlife, symbolizing the equality of all in the face of death.
Note the inscriptions on the walls, in the Old Glagolitic alphabet, the oldest known Slavic alphabet.
The Church of the Holy Trinity in Hrastovlje is recognized as one of the best examples of Romanesque architecture in Europe.
The charming little village of Abitanti and the excellent Istrian wineries
After visiting the beautiful church of Hrastovlje, you may want to head to the mountains on the border with Croatia, to have a look at the tiny village of Abitanti.
This old rural village is partly deserted, with just a handful of old stone houses and a dozen residents. But it is one of the best opportunities to see an authentic old Istrian village, which keeps its old charm intact.
The surrounding area offers excellent opportunities for hiking, climbing and visits to the excellent vineyards of the area, where the excellent Refošk, a strong and tannic ancient local wine is produced.
On the way back to Koper you could stop and taste the delicious local cuisine in one of the good restaurants in the area. Of note are the Gostilna Karjola, located in the village of Marezige, a stone’s throw from the famous Vinska Fontana Marezige, an elegant winery serving good local wines on a nice terrace overlooking the valley.
Gostilna Nimis Vanganel, located in the village of Vanganel, is also very good. The nearby and more modest Gostilna Oljka Vanganel is also worth a try, serving excellent and abundant local specialties. Try the delicious Istrian Ombolo (pork tenderloin wrapped in bread) with truffle sauce!
Best Restaurants in Koper
In Koper you will find a good choice of restaurants and taverns serving good local specialties and excellent wines from the region.
One of my favorite places is Fritolin, located next to the outdoor fresh-food market, a stone’s throw from the marina and the beautiful waterfront park, the perfect place to enjoy some excellent freshly fried fish.
Fritolin is a tiny kiosk serving excellent fresh fish, mainly mixed fried seafood, fried or grilled squid, sardines and portions of octopus salad and other local specialties. The prices are cheap and the quality is excellent. There are a couple of tables just outside the venue.
The market area offers several cheap eating spots, otherwise within walking distance is Sarajevo ’84, a rather popular place serving arguably the best ćevapčići in Koper and good old-fashioned Bosnian cuisine. They also have another location on the opposite side of the old town.
Among the restaurants in Koper it is worth trying Istrska Klet Slavček, an old-fashioned family-run tavern that has been serving good local homemade specialties for over 30 years. Excellent local wine, served directly from the barrel.
For a gourmet dinner try the Capra Restaurant, located just in front of the marina, which serves excellent and creative seafood specialties, pasta, salads and good desserts in an elegant setting with a very cool presentation.
How to get to Koper
Koper is well connected to Trieste (Italy) and Ljubljana. From Trieste to Koper it is about 30 minutes by car, while from Koper to Ljubljana it is about 80 minutes by car.
There are local buses connecting Koper to major cities on the Slovenian coast, such as Piran, Portoroz and Izola. They are operated by the local company Arriva and there is a handy stop just near the market on Piranška ulica.
The bus station for major national and international destinations is located adjacent to the train station, 1.5km southeast of the Old Town on Kolodvorska cesta. There are direct bus connections with Ljubljana, Trieste, Venice and other cities in northern Italy, as well as connections with Zagreb and other main cities in Croatia and Bosnia. You can check prices and bus timetables on the FLIXBUS website.
Alternatively you can take a bus to Trieste, from where buses leave for all major European destinations.
