Hvar is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful islands in Croatia. Marvelous Venetian-style towns with quaint bell towers and white-stone town houses, stunning marinas and fabulous emerald-water bays: Hvar is one of the most amazing gems of the Adriatic Sea. Despite being a popular summer holiday destination, with its wonderful beaches, lively and pleasant towns and a large choice of guesthouses, hotels and campsites, it retains its most authentic and wild side.
In fact, as soon as you enter the remote villages of the southern part of the island of Hvar you will discover the most authentic side of the island, made up of old stone houses, fields of fragrant lavender, centuries-old olive groves and traditional wineries.
What you will find in this guide to visiting Hvar:
- Hvar Island: Things to Know Before You Go
- Things to Do and See in Hvar
- Best Day Trips from Hvar
- The 5 Best Beaches on Hvar Island
- The 5 Best Restaurants in Hvar
- How to Get to Hvar Island
Hvar Island: Things to Know Before You Go
Hvar is one of the most luxurious and amazing summer destinations in Croatia, and it’s a very pleasant place, with beautiful uncrowded beaches and beautiful crystal clear water for swimming. Hvar Island is one of the sunniest places in Croatia, which makes it quite popular among the wealthiest European tourists, who take advantage of the beautiful marinas of the island to arrive with their yachts. There is no shortage of elegant hotels and restaurants, but the island is also pleasant for those traveling on a budget.
The north of Hvar Island is famous for its lively nightlife, parties, and beautiful beaches. Also from here you can easily reach the paradisiacal Paklinski Islands, which boast some of the most beautiful and unspoiled beaches in Croatia.
The south of Hvar Island is instead dotted with sleepy rural villages, where time seems to have stood still. Along the road that runs along the long Hvar Island, you will be able to see several farmers’ stalls, selling typical local products, jams, honey, wine and the fragrant Hvar lavender, which grows in the surrounding fields.
Short detours on dirt roads allow you to explore abandoned old villages, such as Humac, and beautiful uncrowded beaches. In this post you will find a lot of useful tips from the locals to better plan your visit to Hvar, also discovering the best places to stay and to eat and how to live authentic and unforgettable experiences.
Things to Do and See in Hvar Island
The most famous destination on Hvar Island is the town of the same name, Hvar, which is one of the most popular party towns in Croatia. Hvar is known for being an exclusive destination, where famous people such as Prince Harry, George Clooney and Beyonce often come on holiday.
But there is more than Hvar, starting with the quieter, low-key Stari Grad, which boasts a beautiful medieval old town, the village of Vrboska, with its picturesque marina, and the town of Jelsa, which serves as a gateway to entrance to the wild south, dotted with rural villages, certainly less glamorous than Hvar, but no less fascinating.
At the southern end of Hvar Island is the village of Sućuraj, which houses the dock for car ferries that connect Hvar Island with the mainland, and in particular with the town of Drvenik, on the Dalmatian coast.
Things to see and do in Hvar
The beautiful town of Hvar is located in the northern part of the island, overlooking the fabulous Pakleni Islands. In the summer it is estimated to be visited by about 1 million tourists, which may seem really crazy considering the fact that it is just a small town, with a modest marina, a couple of charming squares and a maze of narrow streets lined with restaurants and little shops.
Hvar is enclosed in its 13th-century walls and dominated by the Spanish Fortress (Tvrđava Fortica), from which you have a stunning view over the bay and Pakleni Islands.
To visit the heart of Hvar, go to its main pedestrian street, which stretches from the bus station to St. Stephen’s Square (Trg Sv Stjepana). The square with its beautiful Gothic cathedral is the main meeting point of the town of Hvar, from here you can continue along the Riva promenade, lined with restaurants and luxury hotels. This is also the most exclusive marina in Hvar, and you will be able to see a lot of superyachts moored. Going along the promenade you will arrive at the Franciscan Monastery (Franjevački Samostan Hvar), where one of the most picturesque and famous coves of Hvar is located.
The Spanish Fortress of Hvar (Fortica)
The Spanish Fortress dominates the Gothic old town of Hvar, and is particularly impressive at night when it is illuminated. To get to the Fortica you can climb the steep staircase that leads from the city walls to the top of the fortress. The effort will be amply rewarded by the breathtaking view of the bay and Pakleni Islands.
The Spanish Fortress of Hvar stands on the site of an ancient Illyrian settlement dating back to around 3000 years ago. For many centuries it was an important defensive outpost, the Byzantines built a citadel here in the 6th century, while the Venetians built the present fortress in 1278.
The fortress remained unconquered for a long time, including when the Turks attacked and sacked Hvar in 1571. The Austrians renovated the Fortica in the 19th century, and turned it into a barracks. Today the real reason why people come up here and pay the ticket (50 KN) is to enjoy the view, spectacular especially at sunset. You can also get to the fortress by car, there is free parking right in front of the entrance.
The Hvar Old Town
The heart of Hvar Old Town is Trg Sv Stjepana (St. Stephen’s Square), one of the largest old squares in Croatia. Built in the 13th century, together with the rest of the gothic old town of Hvar, it is dominated by the majestic St. Stephen’s Cathedral, a beautiful Baroque cathedral dating from the 16th century.
St. Stephen’s Cathedral
St. Stephen’s Cathedral, with its imposing bell tower and white stone facade, stands in place of an older church destroyed by the Turks, and parts of the old church are still visible today near the rear of the nave, as are some stone reliefs of saints and the beautiful carved 15th-century choir stalls.
Adjacent to St. Stephen’s Cathedral is the Episcopal Museum, which houses a small but interesting collection of religious artifacts, including a precious 15th-century golden chalice that was a gift from the last king of Bosnia, sarcophagi and ancient icons, the oldest dating from the 13th century.
The Arsenal of Hvar
At the end of St. Stephen’s Square, facing the marina, is the imposing Venetian Arsenal building, once considered one of the most beautiful in Dalmatia. The Arsenal was once used for the repair of war galleons, but over time it became one of the most important buildings in Hvar. Built in the early 1600s to replace the previous 13th century arsenal destroyed by the Turks, it is also home to an important 17th-century theater. The Arsenal of Hvar was recently restored and today hosts temporary exhibitions, cultural events and theatrical performances.
The Benedictine Convent of Hvar and the Art of Lacemaking (UNESCO)
A few steps from St. Stephen’s Square is the Benedictine Convent of Hvar, housed in what was the birthplace of the poet Hanibal Lucić. A community of Benedictine nuns has lived here since the mid-1600s, dedicated to the art of lacemaking.
Hvar is the only place in the world where nuns have been making lace for centuries by laboriously weaving the fibers derived from dried agave leaves. This tradition has been recognized as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO. You can pay a visit to the small museum of the Benedictine Convent in Hvar to see an exhibition on the work of the nuns.
Franciscan Monastery
Walk along the Riva promenade until you reach a pretty cove with emerald water, from which you can see the unmistakable silhouette of the majestic bell tower of the Franciscan Monastery, undoubtedly one of the most remarkable attractions of Hvar.
This sublime 15th-century monastery boasts an austere Renaissance cloister, characterized by an ancient cistern, which leads to the refectory, where some of the town’s greatest treasures are exhibited, including ancient laces and nautical charts, the impressive sixteenth-century painting of the The Last Supper by the Venetian painter Matteo Ingoli, and an authentic edition of Ptolemy’s Atlas printed in 1524.
In the adjacent Church of Our Lady of Mercy you can admire some precious paintings, including the major masterpieces of Francesco da Santacroce, three magnificent polyptychs dating back to 1583.
Pakleni Islands and the Green and Blue Caves
Just in front of the town of Hvar are the astonishing Pakleni Islands (Pakleni Otoci), an archipelago of small wooded islands, featuring myriads of coves where you can swim in a wonderful crystal clear emerald water. The name of the Pakleni Islands derives from paklina, a pine resin that was once harvested here to waterproof boats, although today the islands have mainly become a vacationer’s dream destination.
In fact, no trip to Hvar is complete without touring the islands, which you can do by booking one of the affordable boat trips that depart from Hvar or Split. Visiting the Pakleni Islands is undoubtedly the best way to see the most beautiful and authentic side of the archipelago, as the tours reach the most pristine corners of the islands, and then head to the nearby islands of Vis, where you can visit the islets Biševo and Ravnik, famous for two amazing sea caves, the Green Caves and the Blue Caves.
In particular, the scenic Blue Caves can be visited with small boats, and you can swim in its wonderful turquoise waters. From here, the tours allow you to visit the beautiful Stiniva Cove, a hidden beach, known for being one of the most beautiful and unspoiled beaches in Croatia.
Among the Pakleni Islands, the first one encountered from Hvar is called Jerolim, famous for its clothing-optional beaches. Just beyond is the party island Marinkovac, famous for its beach clubs. The largest of the Pakleni Islands is Sveti Klement, with its three tiny villages, including Palmižana, which boasts a busy and exclusive marina and the beautiful bay of Vinogradišće. There are also some good (not cheap) seafood restaurants on the Pakleni Islands.
Stari Grad
Stari Grad is the real gem of Hvar Island. When you are on the island do not miss to visit this charming town. Stari Grad, which as its name suggests is one of the oldest towns on Hvar Island, was founded in 384 BC by the ancient Greeks, who called it Pharos, and stands along a deep inlet of the Adriatic Sea.
Its peaceful natural harbor is frequented by fishing boats and small boats, nothing compares to Hvar’s opulent marina. This is not to be confused with the ferry port of Stari Grad, which is located a few kilometers outside the town center, along the road to Hvar, where the large ferries to Split and the Italian ports of Pescara and Ancona depart.
Stari Grad is a pleasant, quiet, more cultured and sober town than glamorous Hvar. If you don’t like to party and show off luxury in trendy restaurants and clubs, then you will surely love Stari Grad. Its narrow lanes of the old town are full of quaint corners, shops and pleasant restaurants serving regional cuisine.
From the promenade, head towards the Škor Square (Trg Škor), from which you can reach the beautiful St. Stephen’s Church (Crkva sv Stjepana), dating back to 1605. Beyond its beautiful Baroque facade there is a beautiful Venetian altar from the early 1700s. Walk through the maze of alleys of the old town until you reach the small Church of St. Roch (Crkva sv. Rok) dating back to the 16th century, which houses the remains of the mosaic floor of an ancient Roman bath.
Tvrdalj of Petar Hektorović
Just opposite the Church of St. Roch is the Tvrdalj of Petar Hektorović, a marvelous fortified house built by the noble writer Petar Hektorović in the 16th century. Tvrdalj, which can be visited from May to October, is characterized by a lush Renaissance garden, with a pond in the center where hundreds of fish live, specifically mullets, just as it was in Hektorović’s time and as narrated in his most famous poem, titled Fishing and Fishermen’s Chat (1555).
Dominican Monastery of St Peter the Martyr
After visiting Tvrdalj head just outside the old town (it’s just a few steps), to reach another interesting sight of Stari Grad, the Dominican Monastery of St Peter the Martyr (Dominikanski Samostan i Crkva sv. Petar), built in 1482.
Assaulted by the Turks in the 16th century, it was transformed into a fortified monastery, with defensive walls and a couple of towers at the corners. Take a look at the beautiful cloister garden, an oasis of peace with orange trees, palms and bushes of fragrant lavender. The monastery has a Baroque church where piano concerts are also often held, and a small museum that houses coins and manuscripts dating back to the Greek and Roman era and Tintoretto’s precious 16th-century painting Lamentation of Christ.
Stari Grad Plain (UNESCO)
Along the road to Vrboska, take a look at the fields around the road that runs along the Stari Grad Plain: the parcels of land are still today divided by old dry stone walls according to the geometrical system of land division used by the ancient Greeks.
The land divisions have remained virtually intact for over 2400 years, and now, along with the stone shelters (known locally as trims) and the water collection system, they are recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A curious fact is that the same crops of Greek times, mainly grapes and olives, are still grown in the fields. So the landscape you see today has remained virtually unchanged as it was in the 4th century BC.
Vrboska
The picturesque village of Vrboska is located along the road to the south of Hvar Island. Situated along a canal crossed by a couple of stone bridges, it is a quiet and uncrowded village, with a small marina and dozens of pretty white stone houses.
It is worth taking a look at its old town, which houses some beautiful old churches, such as the Church of St Lawrence’s (Crkva sv. Lovro) dating back to the 15th century. Although it may appear to be nothing more than a modest stone church, it houses several valuable paintings, including a tryptic by Veronese above the high altar.
Just beyond St Lawrence’s Church, continuing along the road that climbs the hill, you come to Our Lady of Mercy Church-Fortress (Crkva-Tvrđava sv. Marije od Milosrđa), which looks more like a fortress than a church. This superb fortified church was built in the 15th century and fortified in the 16th century after the Ottoman attacks of 1571. Its walls also served as a defense against pirate attacks, providing the inhabitants of Vrboska with a safe place to hide valuable goods.
You can visit Vrboska with a calm and short walk, and if you want you can stop for a while here to taste good local wines and regional cuisine in one of its restaurants. Wine lovers will appreciate a stop at the Carić Winery (Vina Carić), where you can taste excellent local wines. It is located in the heart of Vrbosca Old Town, along the north bank of the canal, near the equally good Konoba Nikola Vrboska.
Jelsa
The town of Jelsa, with its peaceful marina, is the gateway to the tiny and remote villages of the south of Hvar Island. While there isn’t much to see, it’s worth taking a short stroll around its old town, with its intimate streets and beautiful Church of the Assumption, surrounded by quaint white-stone houses.
The Church of the Assumption, built in the early 1500s, is a masterpiece of Baroque architecture, with a beautiful Renaissance bell tower. Jelsa is usually uncrowded, and is a good place for an escape from the hustle and bustle of the north of Hvar Island. There are also several good family-run taverns, such as Konoba Nono and Konoba Turan and a good winery, Vina Tomić, located just outside the old town, where you can taste excellent local wines.
Best Day Trips from Hvar
The must-do experience in Hvar is undoubtedly the day trip to the Pakleni Islands, with a boat ride to the Green Caves and the Blue Caves and to the beautiful hidden beaches, such as the fabulous Stiniva Cove and Palmizana Bay.
Another great experience is to hike from Hvar to Milna Beach, one of the most beautiful beaches on Hvar Island. You will walk through a wonderful natural landscape, full of vineyards, lavender fields and small semi-abandoned villages where, looking through the houses, it is still possible to see vintage machinery, such as old olive presses and winemaking tools.
If you are a food lover, you absolutely cannot miss the Hvar gastronomic tour: a local guide will take you to discover the charming rural villages of the south of Hvar Island, among ancient vineyards and olive groves that are now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You will have the opportunity to taste the true flavors of Hvar, the best handcrafted olive oil in the area, lavender and rosemary honeys, excellent local wines and delicious locally produced chocolate, made with local spices.
The 5 Best Beaches on Hvar Island
The best beaches on Hvar Island are usually located off the beaten path, accessible by footpaths or dirt roads. Most of the beaches in Hvar are public pebble beaches, and they often have concrete platforms where people sunbathe or jump into the water. Nothing too poetic.
The prices for a sunbed in Hvar can be quite expensive, but if you don’t mind a hike there are excellent pebble beaches about 30 minutes’ walk from Hvar, such as the beautiful Strand Mekićevica (GPS: 43.16028, 16.46544) and the more famous Pokonji dol Beach (GPS: 43.16391, 16.45564).
It is definitely worth taking a trip to Velo Borce (GPS: 43.16332, 16.47974), one of Milna’s beautiful beaches. There are excellent guided hikes that lead to Milna from Hvar, passing through a breathtaking landscape.
If you have a car you can easily reach the beautiful Dubovica Beach (GPS: 43.14600, 16.53452) and Beach Lucisca (GPS: 43.14229, 16.56568), or explore the myriad of secluded coves in the south of Hvar Island.
Best Restaurants in Hvar
Hvar Island is full of good restaurants serving local specialties made with the freshest ingredients, both fish and meat, excellent olive oil and wines and fragrant Mediterranean spices. Hvar’s restaurants mainly serve seafood specialties, such as risotto, prawns, mussels and the typical Dalmatian fish stews.
Among the most famous restaurants in Hvar are: Dalmatino, which serves good local cuisine, Konoba Fig Hvar, which also serves good vegetarian and vegan specialties, Konoba Bunar, which serves excellent fresh seafood and grilled meat and Konoba Luviji, which has a nice terrace overlooking the rooftops of Hvar and serves excellent fish dishes.
It is worth traveling to the other towns of Hvar Island to find other excellent traditional restaurants. To be honest, I much prefer the restaurants (konoba) scattered in the villages outside the town of Hvar, which are more intimate and authentic.
In Stari Grad there are several good restaurants, such as the family-run Albatros Restaurant, which serves good regional cuisine and the Antika Restaurant, which serves excellent seafood.
The best places to taste the delicious specialties of Hvar Island, such as lamb meat, cheeses, olives and charcuterie, are the small traditional restaurants located outside the towns, such as the Restoran Santa Marija, located a few kilometers from Stari Grad. Nearby there is also the good Konoba Kokot. Both serve excellent grilled meat and local specialties cooked Ispod Peke, the ancient slow cooking technique under a metal, bell-like dome or lid called peka.
In the village of Vrisnik there is the good Konoba Maslina Vrisnik and the elegant Konoba Vrisnik, while along the road leading to the south of the peninsula, it is worth a stop at the Kastel Grill, a no-frills eatery serving local meat specialties and fish in generous portions.
The Kod Kućera Family Farm is worth the trip: it’s a farm where kids can see dozens of adorable donkeys, goats and other animals. It is a great place to eat regional specialties made with farm-grown ingredients.
For an unforgettable experience, book a table for dinner at Konoba Humac. This traditional restaurant is located in the heart of an ancient uninhabited rural village, and is the ideal place to taste delicious local specialties cooked according to ancient recipes, in a very suggestive setting.
How to Get to Hvar Island
Hvar Island is connected to the mainland by two main car-ferry ports, one located a few kilometers from the town of Stari Grad, the other in the village of Sućuraj, at the southeastern end of the island.
- The Jadrolinija Car Ferry from Split to Stari Grad (Hvar) takes about 2 hours. Tickets start at 39 kn (passengers) and 250 kn (car).
- The Jadrolinija Car Ferry from Drvenik to Sućuraj (Hvar) takes about 35 minutes. Tickets start at 13 kn (passengers) and 90 kn (car).
In summer there may be direct weekly connections (Jadrolinija car ferry) with the port of Ancona, in Italy. The connection with the port of Pescara (Italy) has not been carried out for some years, it was operated by the SNAV company.
Jadrolinija also operates daily catamarans (passengers only) from Split to Hvar Town (1.5 hours, tickets from 40 kn) and from Split to Jelsa (1.5 hours, tickets from 40 kn). Tickets and timetables of car ferries and catamarans on the official website of Jadrolinija.
