Cres is one of the most surprising islands in Croatia, easily accessible from the Istrian coast and located a short distance from the famous islands of Krk and Lošinj. Indeed, the islands of Cres and Lošinj are often considered to be a single island. This is because the southern tip of the island of Cres almost touches the northeastern tip of the island of Lošinj. But despite this, the two islands offer very different landscapes, even if they are characterized by a similar history and culture.
Therefore, it might be a good idea to visit both, as they are easily connected by a small bridge. The wild island of Cres will amaze travelers with its authentic and unspoiled landscapes, its beautiful beaches, its picturesque villages and traditional taverns serving delicious local spit-roasted lamb and excellent seafood specialties.
What you can find in this guide to visiting the Island of Cres:
- Where is Cres located?
- Things to Know Before Going to Cres
- Best Things to Do and See in Cres
- Best Restaurants in Cres
- How to Get to Cres Island
- How to Get Around on Cres Island
Where is Cres located?
Cres Island is located in Croatia, in the Kvarner archipelago, facing the Istrian coast. The main town is Cres Town, located along the main road that runs through the island from north to south until it reaches the island of Lošinj and ends at the southern end of the latter, in the town of Veli Lošinj.
Cres Island is separated from Lošinj Island only by an 11m-wide canal and joined by a bridge. Cres is wilder, mountainous, wooded, unspoiled and dotted with small medieval villages with a real off-the-beaten-track feel. Lošinj Island is more touristy, with charming towns, trendy campsites and hotels, but it is still pleasant to explore and boasts beautiful beaches and several interesting hiking trails.
The waters surrounding the islands of Cres and Lošinj are home to the largest (and probably the only known) resident dolphin population in the Adriatic, protected by the Lošinj Dolphin Reserve.
Things to Know Before Going to Cres
The only way to explore Cres is by car. The island is a nature lover’s paradise and is full of hiking opportunities, biking trails, and breathtaking landscapes to explore off the beaten track.
If you don’t have your own car, you could rent one before going to Cres, in one of the main cities of the Croatian coast such as Pula, Rijeka or Zadar. It is highly recommended to book in advance (especially for summer travelers) on reputable websites such as Rentalcars or Discovercars, which offer the best prices and only list honest and trustworthy car rentals.
To reach the most beautiful corners of the island you need to make some detours from the main road and follow the narrow streets that run through lush Mediterranean forests, until you reach remote rural villages, often located on stunning cliffs overlooking the sea. Most of the country roads are narrow but paved. However, to get to some of the more remote beaches on the island you may have to drive short stretches of dirt road, often without guardrails. But trust me, the view and the gorgeous (and uncrowded) beaches are worth the effort.
Cres is an island that has been inhabited since the Stone Age. It was the site of ancient Greek, then Roman, and finally Byzantine settlements. After the rule of the Slavic tribes between the 6th and 7th centuries, Cres came under the Venetian rule. During the Venetian rule the island of Lošinj became an important maritime port, with the cities of Veli Lošinj and Mali Lošinj having a strong commercial and military importance, while Cres was highly regarded for its wine and oil productions.
The delicate ecosystem of Cres has been for many years, since the first pastures introduced by the Illyrians over 1000 years ago, linked to the breeding of a particular breed of sheep, called Tramuntana sheep. The Tramuntana sheep lives only on the island of Cres, and is the only breed of sheep that has adapted perfectly over time to the barren karst pastures of Cres. Once in Cres there were over 100,000 Tramuntana sheep, while today the population of this semi-wild sheep has reduced to just over 15,000.
This is due to the massive introduction of wild boars on the island of Cres, which has become a popular spot for Croatian hunters. The wild boar preys on the semi-wild Tramuntana sheep, reducing its population. Consequently, griffon vultures, another famous endemic species of Cres that feeds on sheep carrion, also have less food, and therefore are in decline.
Tramuntana sheep can be easily seen along country roads leading to the farthest corners of the island, while many traditional Cres restaurants serve excellent Cres lamb specialties. One of the most popular places to try Cres lamb is Konoba Bukaleta, located in the tiny village of Loznati, 5km south of Cres Town (open only in summer).
In the 1920s Cres and Lošinj were annexed to the Kingdom of Italy and then became part of Yugoslavia after WWII and finally of Croatia after the collapse of Yugoslavia in the early 1990s. This is why we often refer to the islands (and their towns) with their old Italian names, in particular Cres in Italian is Cherso. Keep in mind that Cres is not a cheap destination. The prices of accommodation and restaurants are slightly above the Croatian average.
Best Things to Do and See in Cres
Travelers staying a few days in Cres will be able to enjoy the peaceful island life, the exciting hiking trails, the excellent local cuisine and the charm of its villages to the fullest. Not to mention that Cres boasts some of the prettiest secluded beaches in Croatia.
Cres Town
The town of Cres is a jewel of pastel-colored terraced houses overlooking a quiet natural harbor, a small marina, a square with a beautiful clock tower set in the old Venetian walls.
Strolling from the medieval port towards the labyrinthine old town you can have the feeling of being in any Italian seaside town. The town of Cres was in fact built by the Venetians in the 15th century, and preserves its ancient charm and traces of its Italian past, such as the coats of arms on the facades, the beautiful medieval churches and the Renaissance loggias.
The heart of the old town of Cres is Trg Frane Petrića, a triangular shaped medieval square that was once the center of the island’s public and commercial life. Today it is lined with cafes, restaurants and in the morning it hosts a farmer’s market.
Passing through the picturesque 16th-century gate, topped by a blue-faced clock and Venetian coats of arms, you arrive at a smaller square, dominated by the beautiful medieval church dedicated to Saint Mary Major (Crkva sv. Marija velika), famous for its bel Renaissance portal with a relief of the Virgin and Child and the impressive bell tower. It is usually only open during masses, but if you find it open, don’t miss the opportunity to peek at its beautiful interior, including a precious carved wooden pietà from the 15th century.
From the church you can continue your short walk in the maze of alleys of the old town, and then return to the main square. Along the way, just in front of the harbor promenade, you can pay a visit to the tiny but interesting Cres Museum, located in the beautiful Venetian-Gothic Arsan Palace, built in the early 16th century by Bishop Antun Marcello Petris. The museum hosts a small exhibition on the history and culture of Cres, and is only open in summer (entrance fee: 10 KN).
Beli
The picturesque village of Beli is perched on a 130-meters-high hill overlooking the sea. With its 30 inhabitants it is the capital of the Tramuntana region, the wild north of the island of Cres. This is the oldest area of the island, covered with ancient virgin forests, a favorite hunting ground for griffons. The village of Beli, with its ancient stone houses, boasts a 4000-year history and one of the most beautiful views in the archipelago.
It is worth taking a road trip along the Tramuntana hills, dotted with ancient villages, lone chapels, oak and chestnut forests, ancient bridges and even a mysterious Roman labyrinth, the Ladin labirint (GPS: 45.12337, 14.34788), reachable by walking along the many hiking trails in the area.
If you arrive in Beli by car you will have to park a few hundred meters before the old town (inaccessible to cars). From here you can also continue to the nearby pebbly Beli Beach. Don’t miss the view from the viewpoint called Cesta za Beli (GPS: 45.11249, 14.35262) which sweeps across the islands of the archipelago to the mountains of the mainland.
The Beli Visitor Center, located near the car park, provides useful information on the area’s hiking trails and cycling routes. It also houses the Rescue Center for Griffon Vultures, dedicated to the protection and care of griffons. See if they are hosting any griffons at the time of your visit, for an incredible opportunity to see one of these spectacular birds up close.
Valun
Continuing towards the south of the island of Cres, a detour to the pretty villages of the west of the island is worthwhile. The first you come across is the beautiful seaside village of Valun. Overlooking the emerald green sea, Valun is a great place to appreciate the tranquility of the island of Cres. It has a beautiful pebble beach and a small marina.
The village can be visited in half an hour. You need to park before entering the town, and from here you can take an easy walk along the promenade that runs alongside a few terraced houses facing the port. Many people come here to have lunch or dinner in one of the good seaside restaurants in the village. If you don’t know which one to choose, the Konoba Tos Juna is a great address.
Lubenice
After visiting Valun take a trip to the charming semi-abandoned village of Lubenice, one of my favorites in Cres. Lubenice is a charming medieval village perched on an exposed rocky ridge 378 m above one of the most beautiful secluded beaches on the island, the pebbly Lubenice Beach.
The old town of Lubenice can be visited in a few minutes, with its charming and desolate stone houses, the beautiful church and the interesting little Sheep Breeding Museum. There is also a restaurant serving delicious local lamb and wild boar specialties, the Konoba Hibernicia.
To reach the Lubenice Beach it is a long excursion of about 1 hour to go down and very tiring to get back up. Alternatively you could take a taxi boat from Valun or Cres. Nearby there is also the equally beautiful Blue Cave Beach, a secluded beach accessible only by sea or with a long hike. A short distance away is the wonderful Blue Cave, a sea cave accessible only by boat.
Osor
Among the must-see villages of Cres is the beautiful walled town of Osor, located between the islands of Cres and Lošinj. A curious fact is that in Roman times Cres and Lošinj were a single island, just called Osor.
The Romans dug an 11-meter-wide canal to facilitate navigation and then two separate islands were formed, Cres and Lošinj. Osor still spans both islands today, which are connected with a rotating bridge. The Osor bridge is open twice a day, every day, from 9.00 to 9.15 and from 17.00 to 17.15.
Its ancient stone walls hide a quiet and picturesque medieval village, built mainly between the 14th and 15th centuries. It was once the main town on the island, and one of the strongest trading towns on the Croatian coast. However, it was plagued by epidemics of plague and malaria, as well as by the fact that merchants began to prefer new sea routes. The town then fell into a slow decline, until modern days, when it found new life in tourism.
The remains of the castle are still visible today and, not far from the old town, the spectacular ruins of ancient monasteries that are over 1000 years old. The old town of Osor boasts a handful of interesting old churches, such as the Church of the Assumption of Mary (Crkva Velike Gospe), dating from the late 15th century and the nearby Church of St. Gaudencija (Crkva sv. Gaudencija) and Church of St. Mary and Andrew (Crkva sv. Marija).
In the beautiful 15th-century town hall, surmounted by a late 19th century clock, is the small but interesting collection of the Osor Archaeological Collection, which boasts sculptures and finds from the Roman and early Christian periods to the Middle Ages.
Villages and campsites in the southern part of Cres
From Osor a narrow country road runs towards the southern tip of Cres, called Punta Križa. Although the village itself is tiny, just a few houses, a church and a modest family-run restaurant, many tourists come here for the beautiful beaches of the southern coast of Cres. The area is teeming with guesthouses and campsites, including several FKK campsites and naturist or clothing-optional beaches.
Best Restaurants in Cres
There are several good restaurants on the island of Cres ranging from seafood cuisine to delicious meat specialties, first of all the special Cres lamb, which is prepared according to old recipes, stewed, in broth or spit-roasted. The fishermen supply the local restaurants every morning with excellent fresh fish from the Adriatic Sea, while the local farmers produce excellent cheeses, hams and olives. Wild boar is also worth tasting. The restaurants in Cres, especially those located in the more touristic towns, are not exactly cheap.
Among the best restaurants in Cres Town is Gostiona Belona, which serves good grilled fish and meat specialties. In Valun there are the Konoba Tos Juna, the Gostionica San Marco and the MaMaLu which serve excellent seafood specialties.
Just south of Cres Town, in the tiny rural village of Loznati, is the excellent Konoba Bukaleta, a small family-run restaurant serving some of the best Cres lamb specialties on the island. It only opens in summer and is worth the trip!
How to Get to Cres Island
You can easily get to Cres from both the island of Krk and the mainland. One of the most popular ways is the car ferry from Krk Island to Cres Island: Jadrolinija ferries run between Valbiska (on Krk) and Merag (on Cres). There are 9 to 13 ferries a day and the journey takes just 25 minutes. Prices start from 15 KN for passengers and from 96 KN for cars.
There are Jadrolinija car ferries between Brestova and Porozina. Brestova is located in the region of Istria, about 30 km south of Opatija and easily accessible from Pula. Ferries run frequently and the journey takes around 20 minutes. Prices start at 15 KN for passengers and 96 KN for cars.
In addition, Jadrolinija also operates daily catamarans (passengers only) between Rijeka and Cres, also passing through Lošinj. The journey takes approximately 80 minutes. Prices start from 35 KN. The same catamaran also stops in Martinšćica, another tiny seaside village in Cres. Ferry tickets to Cres can be bought directly on site or on the Jadrolinija website. Boarding takes place on a first-come-first-serve basis.
How to Get Around on Cres Island
The best way to explore the island is undoubtedly by car. There are few and infrequent local buses connecting the main villages of the island, however they are not very suitable for sightseeing. There are no car rentals in Cres, so make sure you rent a car in Pula or Rijeka by booking it well in advance (especially if you are traveling in the summer) on reputable sites such as Rentalcars or Discovercars.
